Even Out Your Skin Tone with Good Care
Many people develop brown spots on their skin
over time, especially if they've had a trauma to their skin or spent
much time in the sun. The term for these spots is hyperpigmentation,
which describes an excess of pigment in the skin. Often an early sign of
aging, they may first appear on the backs of hands. These spots can be
faded, but patience for the process is required because repeated
treatments will be necessary. It takes regular use of sunscreen to keep
hyperpigmentation from returning. (Note that hyperpigmentation is
different from hypopigmentation, which appears as lighter spots on the
skin).
Hyperpigmentation arises when melanin in the epidermis becomes
irritated, so to speak, and increases production, darkening the outer
skin and becoming visible at the skin's surface. Regularly scheduled
professional treatments, combined with a proper home care regimen, can
calm the production of melanin and lighten the skin.
Hyperpigmentation takes different forms. These include:
Freckles/lentigenes.These are the result of an inherited tendency; exposure to the sun will darken their color.
Solar lentigenes.These
darkened spots on the skin that some call age spots indicate
overexposure to the sun that has resulted in ultraviolet light damage.
Melasma.Melasma
is a response to hormone changes, such as those caused by birth control
pills, pregnancy, and menopause, resulting in facial spots.
Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.This
is the direct result of an injury to the skin. The body's response to
injury is inflammation. Some think this inflammation reprograms
melanocytes to be hyperactive and to produce more melanin. It affects
men and women equally. Some common pigmentation- causing injuries
include: abrasions, cuts, and wounds; acne lesions and cysts,
excoriations (picking pimples); aggressive chemical exfoliation (peels);
aggressive extraction; ingrown hairs; insect bites; scratching;
sunburn; and waxing.
There is another type of hyper- pigmentation that is more diffused and
appears as an overall darkening of the skin, rather than in patches and
spots. This condition should be cared for by a dermatologist, as it may
reflect a disease or systemic problem, like Addison's disease or
scleroderma.)
Hyperpigmentation
can be caused by certain prescription drugs, like antibiotics,
antidepressants, barbiturates (depressants), and chemotherapy drugs.
Some over-the-counter laxatives with phenolphthalein and nonsteroidal
anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), like ibuprofen, can cause hyper-
pigmentation. Be sure to record your use of these drugs on the intake
form (or on an updated health history) when you arrive and verbally
mention them to your esthetician before beginning a treatment.
Occasionally, people mistake darkness under the eyes for
hyperpigmentation, but this condition is a reflection of the blood
vessels through the surface of the skin. These circles have a variety of
causes and can sometimes be treated with peptides.
While hyperpigmentation generally affects all races, some forms of it
appear more often with certain skin colors and tones. For example,
melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are more prevalent in
darker skin. Solar lentigenes are more prevalent in lighter skin (ninety
percent of white adults older than 60 have age spots); they also are
more common in women than men.
PreventionIt's
very important that you follow the instructions of your skin care
professional in preparing for any skin treatments. Your skin care
professional will take steps to avoid inducing pigmentation when he or
she performs chemical exfoliation, extractions, or waxing. For example,
you may be advised to undergo preliminary treatments or to use skin care
products, or both, for several weeks before chemical exfoliation
(peels) or microdermabrasion. This preparation will reduce the odds of
postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and give you better treatment results
when you do receive peels or microdermabrasion.

To prevent sun-induced hyper- pigmentation and other skin damage,
sunscreen is the most important product to use. Diligent use of
sunscreen can prevent further sun damage, but it cannot repair damage
already done. Experts strongly recommend using generous amounts of SPF
15 (or higher) sunscreen at all times, reapplying it every few hours.
Sunscreens with avobenzone, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide provide the
most complete coverage. Even more importantly, sunscreen reduces
ultraviolet light exposure, which reduces the risk of skin cancer.
TreatmentAs
a member of Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP), your esthetician
is prepared to help address questions you have about your skin and to
work with you to determine the most useful care that meets your needs.
The treatment of brown spots can be highly effective, but it takes a bit
of time. Professional treatments for hyperpigmentation may include
chemical exfoliation or micro- dermabrasion in combination with topical
products. Or, topical treatments may be used alone. Your esthetician can
best determine what will bring you the greatest results. Again,
following the directions for home care after professional treatments is
very important to your success. Make the most of the time and money
you've invested in your treatments by following up on your esthetician's
instructions.